Wednesday, July 10, 2013

How To: A "Soft Look" for a Fierce Lady

I know that bright hair colors are a hit lately. From metallic reds to shades of pinks and purples. From platinum blues to corals. Women are becoming bolder, adventurous and fun. ;)

A fierce hair color is eye catching! In my opinion, it is a mark of a courageous woman. Courageous in a way because I personally think that our hair is our ultimate crown of glory. How you take care of it and how you style it greatly affects the way others see you and how you look entirely.

When it comes to hair color, my favorite is Katy Perry's barbie-ish pink look and Hayley Williams' famous fiery red.

Changing your hair color is the easy part, matching it with your make-up is the tricky one. I've always wanted to do that kind of look and see how it goes.
And by lucky chance, I got to do a look for a pink-haired model. It was one of my favorite looks ever! It was for a shoot of these talented photographers - sisters Anne and Dianne Acaso. It was really an awesome experience to be a part of their photo tandem.

It was Anne's idea that the make-up should be toned down and neutral which works well for me because I'm not comfortable putting heavy make-up on an overwhelming hair color. A striking hair color should not be paired with a face that has bold make-up colors, it's too overwhelming to take in. Make-up is all about balance, you have to let it work with you and not fight against you. Everything should be blended and well thought of.

Skin.
I start by creating a perfect skin as the base. What I did here is I blended my foundation with a moisturizer, so that you mimic the look of a perfect even skin that looks hydrated as well. No matter what you use in applying it - whether your fingers, a sponge, a foundation brush or a stippling brush - take time with it.

The skin on our face is the most essential part of the look. It should NOT look cakey, and most important reminder of all: it should be of THE SAME COLOR AS YOUR NECK, HAND, CHEST and the rest of your body. Remember, you are not trying to change your complexion.
The purpose of foundations is to even out your skin and hide spots or blemishes around your face. You do not want to look like you're wearing a mask by wearing a different shade than your natural complexion. In choosing foundations, remember to stay away from colors that have red or orange undertones in it. Yellow undertones are the best.

Next step it to put concealer under your eyes using a concealer brush or your finger, it should be 2 shades lighter than your foundation. In this case, I just used a foundation with a lighter shade as my concealer. It brightens up your eyes and makes you look rested. Just remember to use colors with yellow undertones in it.

Last step is to hide spots using a foundation or a spot concealer with an eyeliner brush. An eyeliner brush is great for this job because it is small enough to get into those areas that are difficult to conceal.

Eyebrows.
Assess the shape of your eyebrows - its thickness and color.

Whatever the shape, it should always match your hair color. If you have dark hair, choose one shade lighter than your hair color. If you have light hair, choose one shade darker than your hair color.

On the model's pink hair, I decided to mix chestnut (Nichido) and blonde (Mary Kay) eyebrow pencils. They are easier to work with compared to pens and shadows.

Following the natural shape of the brows, I shade it in using feathery strokes working sideways and blend it using a clean mascara wand(sideways as well).

I finish it off by putting an eyebrow gel. Eyebrow gels are great in recreating that natural look of the hairs on your eyebrows. It also keeps the hair in place!

Important reminders in shading your eyebrows: don't get carried away by layering too much on it. Remember that you are shading your eyebrows, not drawing in new ones.

Eyes.
The first thing I do when working on the eyes is to prime it.
The natural oils on your eyelids tend to make our eyeshadows run. So don't have second thoughts on investing on a great eye primer! It makes your eye make-up last longer while enhancing its colors.

Next step is to curl your mascara with any eyelash curler.

Onto eyeshadows. Keep in mind to stick with neutral colors when working with strong hair colors. I applied a shimmery white shadow on the inner lid, a light brown color on the outer lid, placed a little of golden shimmery shadow in between and applied the same light brown color on the crease. I also added a little bit of peachy pink shimmery shadow on the center of the lid. To brighten up the eye, put a little bit of highlighter on the inner corners. And in lining the eyes, I just softly lined it with the same light brown shadow.

Remember to blend everything well and not letting it look too made up. Notice that I didn't line the eyes with an eye liner. I like it soft and neutral as it already is. I just finished it off by applying mascara onto the lashes.

Important reminders when working on the eyes: you should curl the roots - NOT the center nor the tip of the lashes. And when applying mascara, start at the roots working outwards using squiggly motions. It will make your eyelashes look NATURALLY thicker and longer as opposed to looking like you just applied black liquid in there. Sometimes its not only just about the makeup, its also about THE WAY YOU APPLY IT that makes the difference. ;)

Cheeks.
I used a shimmery rose-colored blush on the cheeks and a matte brown colored bronzer on the cheekbones to add some depth to her face. I also applied a cream-based highlighter on top of her cheeks just to define it and make it look dewy and fresh.

Contour.
Always use matte colors that mimic the color of the shadows on your face. Using an angled brush, contour the nose, cheek bones, chin and forehead just to add depth and definition to your face. Remember to apply with a light hand. You do not want those lines to look too obvious and harsh. Soften it down with a clean brush to achieve that natural look. ;)

Important reminders: be careful NOT to apply blushes, bronzers and highlighters with a heavy hand. You want the colors to look like its coming from your skin, not to look like someone slapped it in there. :)

Lips.
Prime the lips by putting on lip balm and brush it in using a baby's toothbrush to remove the dead skin. You don't want to waste a good lipstick on chapped lip! I do this first before putting on foundation just to give time for the lip balm to sink in and moisturize the lip.

On the model, I applied a gorgeous satin nude color on the lips.

Important reminders: DON'T use a matte nude lip color when matching this hair color since it can make you look too washed out. For other occasions, you can switch to a baby pink lippy(you can wear it matte or glossy) just when you're feeling more fun or when you're in the mood to add some color!

Photographer: Anne Acaso
Model: Mariella


Here's the final look: 





If you want to view the whole set, please visit Anne Acaso's blog here.




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